Benetton, Ferrari close Milan Fashion Week with bold moves

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MILAN (AP) – Milan Fashion Week closed Sunday after five days of mostly womenswear previews that celebrated diversity and renewal, with more designers of color represented than ever and a wealth of new talent that they debuted in the big fashion houses.

The Italian fashion council also put the spotlight on sustainability with the return of the Green Carpet Awards on Sunday night which recognize advances in practices that reduce waste in the industry and its carbon footprint.

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Despite the fashion world’s focus on sustainability, this season’s calendar featured unsustainable trajectories between shows, forcing the fashion audience to travel back and forth, multiple times in one day, within a city already stuck Even cycling proved a challenge with few bike lanes on the routes.

Some highlights from Sunday, the closing day of Milan Fashion Week:

REFRESHING BENETTON FROM THE GENTILE

Benetton is embarking on another remake, this time under the creative direction of Andrea Incontri, a Milanese designer with experience at numerous fashion houses, including Tod’s.

An architect by training, Incontri wants to reshape the Benetton retail experience and emptied the Corso Buenos Aires flagship store for his runway debut as creative director. Above, her new collection, full of colorful fruit-repeating motifs, beautiful knits and tweeds, hangs on a bare-tiled wall, in well-curated, easy-to-explore constellations.

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Underscoring their desire to start with the consumer, Incontri arranged the walkway on the ground floor, allowing passers-by to see them.

The modern silhouette features culottes, a trend popular in Milan for the coming spring and summer, and leather Obi belts that shape crisp cotton dresses or matching cotton crop top sets for men.

The brand’s famous knitwear is a beautiful blend, which goes very well together. A bra top gives a modern twist to a tunic and ribbed trousers that are as cozy as they are stylish. Knit biker shorts transform a tweed skirt and jacket into active daywear. Fruit motifs create a cornucopia of mixed looks: the reds, pinks and yellows of cherries, pears and apples juxtapose cheerfully against green, sky blue and yellow backgrounds.

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Incontri has given Benetton’s octopus logo a much-needed graphic update, deploying it sparingly, and has created B and E necklaces for Benetton, in the spirit of customization popular among Gen-Z. Just six months into the job, Incontri promises an even more complete makeover for the 57-year-old brand, which has experienced periods of malaise.

While Benetton’s excitement is strongly related to Oliviero Toscani’s United Colors of Benetton advertising campaigns, Incontro wants to put the product and the consumer first.

“This is a brand that I feel very fond of, like many Italians, because I grew up with it,” Incontri told reporters.

FERRARI CLOTHES GAINING TRACTION

Super sports carmaker Ferrari’s foray into luxury goods is finding traction among its luxury car buyers, as expected, but also Formula 1 fans whose garages house less flashy cars.

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Rocco Iannone, the creative director of Ferrari’s fashion line, said he saw the effect during this month’s Monza Grand Prix event. Many Formula 1 fans were buying expensive custom-made Ferrari clothing and turned up the next day wearing it to the racetrack “with badges and all the iconic elements”.

“This mix is ​​what I’m interested in explaining: they exist and we want to give them a closet,” Ianonne said.

Iannone’s third collection focuses on what the creative director called Ferrari’s “primordial materials”: leather, denim, cotton and silk.

The new collection combines pieces that would be coveted by Formula 1 fans, such as racing overalls and patch-embellished pit jackets, as well as stylish pieces that incorporate Ferrari’s technological engine more subtly.

Jacquard cargo pants are made from recycled nylon, giving a camouflage look. The denim is technological, each piece treated with ozone sprays to give a colored stone effect without the usual environmental damage. And nappa glove leather is used to make flexible leather overalls in deep red with orange or black tones.

“The aim is to embrace the soul of Ferrari through a crisp, precise and mixed wardrobe,” Iannone.

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